HISTORY OF LADIES HAT PINS

Although prized by antique collectors today, hatpins were once both commonplace and controversial. Ranging between 6 and 12 inches long, depending on the size of the hat they needed to secure to a woman’s head, they were fancy or practical. Every available material was used in their manufacture; precious metals, gemstones, plastics and paste. Hatpin makers marketed their products to the various levels of society, ranging from the extremely ornate and expensive to the simple and functional. The heyday of the hatpin lasted from the 1880's to 1920’s, after which hair styles became short and hats became smaller, making pins unnecessary.

As far back as the Middle Ages in Britain and Europe, pins were used as a device to securely hold wimples and veils that proper ladies used to cover their hair. These wire pins were used for hundreds of years. In 1800 the making of decorative and functional pins became a cottage industry, frequently employing an entire family. Each pin was time-consuming to make, limiting the numbers of pins available to the demanding public.

One way to keep up with demand was to import from France. Parliament became alarmed at the effect the imports had on the balance of trade and, in 1820, passed an Act restricting the sale of pins to two days per year, January first and second. Ladies saved their money all year to be able to purchase pins, which may explain the term “pin money.” Queen Victoria, however, taxed her subjects at the beginning of each year to pay for her own pins, which may also have originated the term.

In 1832 a pin making machine was patented in the U. S. and the production of pins with long tapering points began, usurping the hand-made ones. Within the next two years, England and France as well as Japan began production machine-made pins. Any woman wearing a hat undoubtedly had a hat pin holding it in place. These pins could be up to thirteen inches long with a quite sharp tip, providing Victorian women with a handy weapon. They were so threatening that one judge ordered suffragettes to remove their hats and hatpins, for fear they’d use them as weapons in his court. Arkansas and Illinois passed bills limiting the length of hatpins to 9 inches. If a lengthier pin were desired, a permit had to be applied for.

In 1848, head coverings were merely another piece of clothing which changed with fashion. Bonnets came into being, employing ribbons and strings tied under the chin to hold them on. This coincided with the suffrage movement, as women were as eager to be free of bonnet strings as they were to declare their right of equality with men.

The rise in popularity of hatpins as a result of changing fashions in the late 19^th and early 20^th centuries saw the Charles Horner jewelry business becoming one of the British market leaders in good quality but mass produced hatpins. Some of the high quality makers in the U. S. were the Unger Bros., the William Link Co., the Paye & Baker Mfg. Co. and Tiffany & Co.

At the start of World War II women took over the jobs vacated by men who had gone away to war. As they reported to work in the factories, shipyards and aircraft plants the wearing of hats fell out of fashion, along with hat pins, which is too bad because a lot of us today could use a good weapon as handy as our hats, now and then.

Resource Materials and Books

The Collectors Encyclopedia of Hatpin and Hatpin Holders by Lillian Baker, Collector Books of Paducah, Kn. Out of print - available on the secondary market

Baker's Encyclopedia of Hatpins and Hatpin Holders, Schiffer Books

Hatpins and Hatpin Holders an Illustrated Value Guide by Lillian Baker, Collector books

Art Nouveau and Art Deco Jewelry by Lillian Baker, Collector books

Hat Pins by Eve Eckstein and June Ferkins, Shire Publication ISBN 0 2478 0182 7

Hat Pins and Tie Pins by Alexandra M. Rhodes, Mackays of Chatham Ltd. publication ISBN 0 7188 2540 3

Charles Horner of Halifax. A Celebration of his Life and Work by Tom Lawson, GML Publishing. ISBN 0-9542354-0-1

DRESSES OF THE 1860s

GOWNS FROM THE 1880S

PARASOLS—The Silent Accessory

Parasols of some variety were the de rigeur for any woman of the prosperous Victorian middle class. The significance of her sunshade went well beyond frippery: it guarded the pale complexion that distinguished a lady of leisure from her ruddier working-class sister.

            The wealthiest lady matched a different parasol to every costume, which made these accessories bellwethers of social position; since excess meant affluence, an opulent parasol was the perfect status symbol. At the very least, a lady owned a plain, dark parasol for every-day use and a more elaborately decorated version for dress.

            The rain umbrella, a sturdier and more utilitarian affair, was of less concern in an era when feminine attire made walks in the rain impractical. Plus, carrying an umbrella gave mute testimony to the fact that one lacked the means to hire a coach in inclement weather.

            A more dashing woman might be seen driving her own park phaeton, a carriage just large enough to display her billowing skirts to advantage. Over her head would fly the tail of her driving whip, upon whose shaft had been mounted a jaunty sunshade. Possession of such a parasol-whip suggested its owner was not only prosperous, but spirited.

            However stylish the open carriage, its perils were exposure to sun, wind and dust. Clever parasol manufacturers addressed the problem by incorporating a hinge near the top of the stick, so the shade could be tilted at an angle. When turned upon its stem, the cover functioned like a fan, directly shielding the face. No surprise that the design resurfaced with the 20-century advent of the automobile.

            The parasol of the early 1830s could measure a full yard in diameter, balanced as it was by full leg-of-mutton sleeves. But narrowing sleeves brought with them proportionally smaller sunshades. The trend reached its extreme in 1858 with the brief appearance of the minuscule “telegram” parasol, with dimensions barely larger than those of the message sheet whose name it shares.

            There was also the line of the skirt to consider. Flounces embellished parasol covers just as they did mid-century gowns, and sunshades grew more domed along with the skirts. By 1860, with some women wearing a hoop nearly 18 feet in circumference, the challenge of wielding a closed parasol gave rise to a new sort of jointed handle. In this version, the break appeared farther down the stem, allowing the long stick to fold for ease of handling. As with the carriage parasol, while the shade was opened overhead, the joint was secured with a ring of bone, or ivory or even gold.

            With their elaborate handles and stems—some carved from exotic coral or jade or even encrusted with precious gems—fine parasols were passed down through families. The delicate silk tops, though, were ephemeral. A thrifty woman might revive an old cover with an overlay of hand-tatted lace, but most parasols were professionally recovered.

            One reason parasols were treasured is that they were presented as serious courting gifts, fraught with intention. Like jewelry, such parasols were costly. Moreover, they were considered an intimate part of a lady’s toilette. For a lady to accept a parasol from her beau meant they were as good as engaged.

          

         

            

            

            

A History of Purses and Handbags

Ever wonder about the origin of handbags and purses that have been essential to fashion history since people first sought something to carry around their possessions with them? The first written mention of such items comes from the 14th century, although we do know that Egyptian hieroglyphs show pouches carried around the waist. Bags were attached to what were called "girdles" worn around the waist. They were adorned with embroidery and jewels and used to show status—the richer the person, the more elaborate the bag.

In the 16th century, handbags became more practical with the use of everyday materials, such as leather and drawstrings. During this period, larger cloth bags were used by travelers and carried diagonally across the body. More variety appeared in the 17^th century, when both fashionable men and women carried small purses with complex shapes. Young girls were taught embroidery as a very necessary skill to make them marriageable and resulted in beautiful and unique stitched artwork in handbags.

Neo-classical clothing became popular in the 18th century, with a reduction in the amount of underclothing worn by women. To avoid ruining the look of this clothing ladies carried bags called reticules. Women had a different bag for each occasion and every fashion magazine had arguments on the proper carrying of purses. In reticules one might find rouge, powder, a fan, a scent bottle, visiting cards, a card case, and smelling salts.

The term "handbag" first appeared in the early 1900's and generally referred to hand-held luggage bags usually carried by men. These were an inspiration for new bags that became popularized for women, including handbags with complicated fasteners, internal compartments, and locks. With this new fashion, jewelers got into the act with special compartments for opera glasses, cosmetics, and fans. 

Due to the revolution in fashion—with varying hemlines and lighter clothing—in the 1920s, bags no longer needed to match the outfit perfectly. The rage was for the stylish lady to carry a doll wearing an identical costume to her own, complete with matching bag.

The 1940s saw new austerity in clothing, including handbags because of the war effort. Metal frames, zips, leather, and mirrors were in short supply so manufacturers resorted to using plastic and wood. This continued into the 50s. I well remember the boxy little plastic purses I had when I was young. The 50s also saw the rise of important designer houses including Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Hermes, while the 60s saw old notions of the classical and the rise of youth culture broken down.

I wish I’d known all this years ago when I wrote my books. Now I must hope I used the correct terms for the time period in which my story took place. This is why an author cannot do too much research. Do any of you own any vintage or antique bags? Most would still be popular to carry today under the right circumstances. What sort of bag did you carry to your school prom?